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Author: Brooke Squires
My biggest adventures with wildlife in Melako Conservancy Kenya usually involve a hyena. I seem to attract them like flies. And yes, at first you do only think about how unattractive they are. Until you see them hunting, or spending time at the edge of camp, and can’t help but gain an appreciation for the importance of their role in nature…that ’s what I tell myself anyway!
Some of my most memorable wildlife encounters have been with the hyena at Oryx camp in Melako. We once had an old goat carcass that we’d decided not to bury. We plonked it on the bonnet of the Landcruiser and drove to the nearby airstrip. We put the carcass on the ground, turned off the engine and waited for the hyena to arrive. It was breath-holding stuff. After about a minute, we heard the whooping call from one member of the pack to another. All of a sudden they came out of nowhere, grabbed the carcass and were gone in a flash. Amazing.
We also have a night vision camera set up at the river bed and that is where you see the big kids come out to play. The scouts started using the motion sensor night vision camera last year when they were digging water wells in the river bed for wildlife. No one really knew which animals were using the wells. To everyone’s surprise the cameras captured images of hyena, elephant, big herds of Grevy’s zebra, one very awkward giraffe and loads of small carnivores such as genets and civets, even a porcupine ( brave soul). I think my favourite set of images is when a particular hyena (yes hyena trouble again) came up to the camera, had a good sniff, a bit of a nibble then dismantled one very expensive piece of equipment...with his teeth, I am sure he thought it was a great joke!!
It is great fun setting up the cameras. You will be helping us on the trip; you might be surprised about who hangs around camp when we are sound asleep…
Melako is home to some incredible rangeland wildlife; these are the tough animals, the ones who can go for long periods of time without water, the ones who can travel huge distances to access food, the ones who are truly wild. I have seen cheetah, elephants, lots of very fat giraffe, Grevy’s zebra, gerenuk and ostrich, but my very favourite is the Beisa Oryx. 
These desert antelope are exquisite, big brown eyes, elegantly curved horns, almost fawn in colour and so very shy. Some of the larger herds are in Melako, existing where there is no livestock, as they have the ability to go without water for long periods of time. When you see an oryx, it is like finding gold.... they are so precious. That is why RAW Africa Ecotours named our campsite after them and why the oryx is on our logo, we think they are perfect and we want you all to know it! Part of the reason why RAW Africa Ecotours is so passionate about enterprise development is because of the oryx...and the people of course. By providing alternative sources of income, such as through ecotourism, the community members do not have to rely on livestock alone to be able to pay for food, school fees etc, Less livestock in Melako means more grazing and room for oryx and allows communities to diversify their income, so win- win really.
And the best way that you can help Beisa Oryx is by coming on the trip with me, and supporting community ecotourism and local enterprises by purchasing some of the incredible items that the community have made especially for you. Even better is meeting the person who made it...but that’s a whole other story for a whole other blog.
Come and visit the African Tour page...
Brooke Squires has worked in zoos, national parks and conservation areas around the world. These days, she divides her time between her beloved rhinos at Werribee Open Range Zoo, Victoria, where she is a rhino keeper, and the International Conservation Partnerships for Zoos Victoria.
bsquires@rawildlife.com.au
Ph: +61 (0) 423 393 836
Author: Brooke Squires
The Ngarendare Forest sits on the Lewa boundary and spreads up towards the base of Mt Kenya. In fact, the elephant herds pass through the forest on their way up the mountain, via the good old Elephant tunnel.
The Ngarendare Forest is one of the few intact indigenous forests in Kenya and has an expanding population of cedar trees; hard to believe that the tree species one would most often associate with northern Europe is actually native to this part of Africa. The scent as you walk through the forest is like something out of a Norsca advertisement (for those of us old enough to remember those soap ads), and just when you can imagine yourself about to come across a Scandinavian log hut or some such, out pops a giraffe or a zebra! Just crazy!
The local community has worked extremely hard over the years to protect the forest and allow it to regenerate. Sustainable harvesting and non timber forest products such as honey have allowed the community to maintain the forest and earn an income. The forest is also full of African olive trees, palms and figs.
The best way to see Ngarendare forest is to get right up in it on the only treetop canopy walk in Kenya. I am not a very good birder (much preferring to spot horned beasts rather than winged ones in the wild), but the bird species in the canopy are just spectacular, so different from the species on Lewa’s open grasslands.
I also love walking along the elephant paths through the forest. We take an expert guide with us on this journey as you never know what you will meet under the canopy...rhino...elephant...buffalo.
After a nice walk, the next best thing to do is swim in one of the pristine water pools that originate from springs in the forest. This is usually followed by a picnic lunch including great local cheeses and then a good old afternoon nap by the side of the stream.
Barely anyone comes to the forest so it is a great way to see such an unusual part of Kenya and support a local community conservation enterprise at the same time. I am sure you will love it.
So come with me on this journey and support local conservation efforts to save this beautiful forest!
Come and visit the African Tour Page
Brooke Squires has worked in zoos, national parks and conservation areas around the world. These days, she divides her time between her beloved rhinos at Werribee Open Range Zoo, Victoria, where she is a rhino keeper, and the International Conservation Partnerships for Zoos Victoria.
bsquires@rawildlife.com.au
Ph: +61 (0) 423 393 836
Author: Brooke Squires
It goes without saying that after 20 years of looking after rhino at Werribee Zoo, one of the big things that drew me to working in Kenya was the wildlife, yep.... especially those crazy rhinoceros. Now, I love my big, lumbering, 3.5 tons of rhino at the zoo, but nothing can really compare with the hard core 'I really know how to use my horn' type of rhino that roam Lewa and Il Ngwesi Conservancies in Kenya.
And it is not only the rhino that are so incredible in this part of east Africa. Melako and Lewa are also home to the endangered Beisa Oryx and Grevy’s zebra, as well as huge herds of elephant, giraffe, and cheeky monkeys. And for the big cat lovers out there, I have never been to Lewa without seeing a lion!
Lewa is a pretty stunning Conservancy. It was originally a cattle ranch until an inspiring lady, by the name of Anna Merz, convinced the Craigs (the owners) to turn Lewa into a rhino Sanctuary. Gradually other wildlife was reintroduced and over time the Sanctuary became a Conservancy and joined with the neighbouring community of Il Ngwesi. It is because of Anna and our shared passion for rhino that I first came to Kenya.
Lewa is extraordinary. Just imagine waking each morning to the sound of Crested Cranes flying overhead, or to the call of the zebra stallion as he gathers his herd together, and the unforgettable roar of lion in the swamp not more than 200 metres from your room.
But for me the heart and soul of Kenya will always be the rhino. Lewa has a female Black rhino that is blind and therefore cannot rear her calves, so the Lewa scouts hand-rear these gorgeous rhinos until they can be released onto the Conservancy. Considering that the calves weigh about 40kgs when they are born, it doesn’t take long to develop a healthy respect for these little guys, especially when they take out your kneecaps! Elvis is a 2-year-old Black rhino that was hand-raised on Lewa; he hangs around the camp and offices and admin areas. Often when I go for a wander in the early hours of the morning, cup of hot tea in hand, Elvis is already about. I think he enjoys sharing the beautiful sunrises with someone. At any rate, he is great company and it adds that little bit of magic to my day.
In Kenya every rhino is precious, and with rhino horn worth more than gold on the black market, it is easy to see why. Poaching is a very real threat. Lewa is a big Conservancy with more than 150 scouts employed to protect wildlife around the clock, especially the rhino, and with the incidence of poaching increasing across Africa, Lewa, Melako and Il Ngwesi, scouts are highly trained and take their jobs very seriously. John Pameri (at left) is local Maasai and in charge of the Conservancy scouts and all wildlife management and security services on Lewa. John is so full of fun and laughter that I always find it hard to believe his job is to protect wildlife from poachers...No Matter What. Spending even a small amount of time in John’s company is incredible; this is a man with his finger on the wildlife pulse of Kenya. John is more than happy to have a coffee with us, chatting about wildlife management on Lewa, the challenges and successes, sharing unique stories and insights from his extraordinary job. This is a fantastic opportunity that the average visitor to Lewa does not experience. John may even take us on a walk with one of his scouts.
And let me tell you about the Beagles. Beagles? Oh yes, Beagles. As in the dog variety. Lewa’s Beagles form an integral part of the anti-poaching unit that protects the wildlife of the Conservancy. Nothing can sniff out a poacher quite like a Beagle. They are the kings of tracking. Lewa’s Beagles are used across Lewa, Ol Pejeta and other surrounding Conservancies when there is even the whiff of a poacher. I am eternally grateful that dedicated men like John and his Beagles are keeping an eye on rhino, so future generations will still be able to see these beasties roaming free across the African plains.
Running an anti-poaching dog unit is an expensive exercise, but so necessary. Supporting a Beagle to protect a rhino is pretty easy. All it costs is $30 a month. You can do this through RAW Africa Eco Tours “Want to do a little bit more” program, or even better, why don’t you come and meet Lewa’s anti-poaching dog unit and John, when you come on this trip of a lifetime. Come and visit the African Tour page.
Brooke Squires has worked in zoos, national parks and conservation areas around the world. These days, she divides her time between her beloved rhinos at Werribee Open Range Zoo, Victoria, where she is a rhino keeper, and the International Conservation Partnerships for Zoos Victoria.
bsquires@rawildlife.com.au
Ph: +61 (0) 423 393 836
Author: Brooke Squires
Believe it or not, there is snow at the equator.
Don’t believe me? Journey with me to Kenya and see for yourself. Mt Kenya is remarkable; it is dramatic, it is surrounded by the most diverse and unique eco system I have ever witnessed, and yes, it boasts snow-covered peaks even though it sits at the equator.
On our way to Melako and Il Ngwesi Conservancy, we stop for a couple of nights in Nanyuki. Great town and the best pizza ever, oh and the 2nd best Gin & Tonics in Kenya. Nanyuki sits at 1900m above sea level and Mt Kenya is even higher. Mt Kenya is the 2nd tallest peak in Africa and is unforgettable. It is also the southern most point of the elephant migration route that starts up in Melako, makes its way through Il Ngwesi and Lewa, and finishes on the mountain, so it is kind of the end point of the journey for many of our herds.
I always love the stories of the elephant herds, especially those about the big bulls getting to the mountain. Many of these bulls are so skilful at negotiating the gates out of Lewa, creeping across the highway, sneaking through farmland and villages, that you would never know they had been there.
Radio tracking collars have been attached to the biggest bulls to see how they do it and these guys appear to be the masters of sneaky night-time travelling. When Richard Branson heard about this amazing feat he decided to help these ingenious elephants out by building an elephant tunnel under the highway. Can you imagine a tunnel for elephants to use to get from one side of the busy freeway to the other? It is just like the wombat tunnels they use at Cradle Mountain in Tasmania.....except heaps bigger! Since the tunnel opened a year ago, over 600 grateful elephants have migrated back to Mt Kenya. I think truck drivers, communities, motorists and the elephants must all be breathing a sigh of relief, it would have given a few people a heart attack to come around that sharp bend near the Lewa turn off and come face-to tusk with 15 tons of freeway mammal traffic.
Can’t wait to introduce you to these elephants, Mt Kenya, and the elephant tunnel, and chat about the unique and inspiring methods for dealing with conservation issues in such contemporary and clever way. This is what I look forward to showing you: the beautiful traditional ways of working with wildlife, combined with the clever innovations that make it easier for communities to live side by side with wildlife like the Mt Kenya elephants.
Join me to witness the elephant tunnel and Mt Kenya covered in snow. Come and visit the African Tour page.
Brooke Squires has worked in zoos, national parks and conservation areas around the world. These days, she divides her time between her beloved rhinos at Werribee Open Range Zoo, Victoria, where she is a rhino keeper, and the International Conservation Partnerships for Zoos Victoria.
bsquires@rawildlife.com.au
Ph: +61 (0) 423 393 836
Author: Brooke Squires
Now I know Nairobi, the capital of Kenya, has not always had the best reputation. But these days Nairobi is a bustling and funky city to hang out in. I have had some of the best Ethiopian and Italian food in Nairobi restaurants and no one makes a Gin and Tonic like the barman at the Hotel Boulevard, where we spend our first 2 nights in Kenya.
The traffic is complete mayhem! Thankfully Sam, our driver, is utterly brilliant and so cool, calm and collected that negotiating donkey driven carts, buses the size of the Titanic, and the roundabouts from the Twilight Zone are no problem. When I travel with Sam, I sit back in the taxi, read a local paper and enjoy the ride. Sam always has great stories and you couldn’t ask for a better guide around Nairobi.
When I have a day spare in Nairobi, I love to get just out of town with Sam and visit some really great wildlife centres. The first stop of the day is Sheldrick’s Wildlife Orphanage. Daphne Sheldrick is a women so passionate about wildlife that whenever an elephant is orphaned anywhere around Kenya, she personally rescues it, brings it home, and rears it with a team of dedicated staff before releasing her four legged child into a safe conservation area with a group of its buddies. Some of the images of her team loading these little ellies into a small 8 seater plane are astounding!
Sheldrick’s has special meaning for me as some of the elephants orphaned by poaching around our conservancies in the north come to Sheldrick’s. While the reason why the elephants end up here is not so fantastic, there is nothing as hilarious as watching a whole herd of calves dashing down the hill towards you, squealing and trumpeting, for a play in the mud, a huge drink of milk and a frolic around the big open spaces.
But the journey doesn’t end there. We also visit the Langatta Giraffe Breeding Centre. The centre breeds the rare Rothschild Giraffe. Again, Langatta has special meaning for me as I have looked after Rothschild giraffe at Werribee Zoo. In fact, imagine my surprise when I walked into the centre and there on the wall was a poster of one of my giraffe, Jandamara. The guide thought I was a complete loony as I was pointing at the poster and repeating, “That’s my giraffe, that’s my giraffe!!”. Thankfully I was not escorted off the property and I can take you there.
A day in Nairobi would not be complete without spending time at the Karen Blixen Museum. Karen Blixen is a local legend and is most famous for her novel “Out of Africa”, the movie starred Meryl Streep and Robert Redford. I cried all the way through that movie, but I do love the museum. Karen Blixen had an enormous coffee plantation (what’s not to love about a women who owned acres of coffee) and is a firm part of Nairobi’s colonial past. Being at the museum gives you real insight into colonial Kenya, and like it or hate it, it’s a fascinating story.
The night deserves a G&T and a visit to one of those restaurants I could rave all day about. Before we head to the north the next day, I think it is worth popping into the Nairobi National Museum and Botanical Gardens. The Museum has a great natural history section, especially if you are an archaeology freak, as many believe that Lake Turkana in Kenya’s northwest is the cradle of humanity. Some of the oldest humanoid fossils have been found at Lake Turkana and are now located in a strong room of the Nairobi Museum. The Museum also has an extensive section on the cultures, people and history of Kenya. It is a great way to start learning the stories of the people of the north.
Sound like fun? Well it would be great to have you along on our next journey to Kenya and take you to Sheldrick’s, Langatta Centre, Karen Blixen’s place, and the National museum. If you would like to know more about a day in Nairobi, please drop me a line brooke@rawafricaecotours.com.au or simply join me for great food, G&Ts, and really interesting places.
Come and visit the African Tour page!
Brooke Squires has worked in zoos, national parks and conservation areas around the world. These days, she divides her time between her beloved rhinos at Werribee Open Range Zoo, Victoria, where she is a rhino keeper, and the International Conservation Partnerships for Zoos Victoria.
bsquires@rawildlife.com.au
Ph: +61 (0) 423 393 836
Author: Mark Keenan
A lot of people I meet tell me that working as a zookeeper would be just about their dream vocation. Yes it’s true; in many ways I am incredibly fortunate. I work with amazing animals and in connection with inspiring individuals. I have also been a part of some great zoo-based conservation initiatives, including the “Don’t Palm Us Off” campaign that helped develop awareness of Palm Oil in this country.
Yet as satisfying as this public awareness campaign proved to be, I still wanted the opportunity to immerse myself in the challenges facing South East Asia, in person, to make a difference at ground level and help produce tangible conservation results.
For me, the chance to work with RWE granted my wish, providing an opportunity to take like-minded individuals into the heart of palm oil plantations, to witness the environmental and social devastation, and to meet the people who are helping slow the destruction in order to preserve one of the world’s most unique and valuable biological ecosystems.
It is incredibly exciting that we can support the community of Tangkahan as custodians of the forest. Everyone I have taken to Tangkahan has been changed in one way or another, touched by the culture, the people, the beauty of the jungle and it’s wild inhabitants.
RWE inspires people. In Tangkahan a powerful message is continually re-enforced and acted upon, that the community can sustain future generations without destroying their forest homelands. Whilst here in Australia, past guests champion efforts to save the forests of North Sumatra and form the foundation of fundraising efforts that see RWE invest continuously in conservation programs in the region.
In what could only be described as a perk of the job, I also get to spend time surrounded by one of the most beautiful environments on the planet. Picture pristine, fast-flowing rivers with crystal-clear green waters and soaring jungle-covered hilltops. Add to this the distinct calls of Hornbills, Siamangs, and White Handed Gibbons. Sprinkle in some Elephants, Orangutans, Otters, and Slow Loris - maybe even a Tiger or two - and you have life in Tangkahan on the edge of the Gunung Leuser National Park. Couple this with two weeks spent with the most friendly, gracious, and inspirational hosts you’re likely to meet and you have a RAW adventure.
I distinctly remember my first time in Tangkahan … thinking this place is so perfect and yet so delicately balanced. It’s an incredible part of the world and offers a once in a lifetime opportunity to experience one of South East Asia’s great final frontiers. I whole-heartedly encourage you to join us on one of our tours for what will prove a life changing adventure!
Mark is a Raw Tour Leader and dedicated advocate for active conservation of marine ecosystems and forest habitats.
Author: Rika Nauck
‘If a man does take a journey, he will have a story to tell’. This rather literal translation of a German proverb from the 18th century describes so nicely the old fashioned feeling that I experienced on my 2011 trip to Tangkahan.
Tangkahan! What a wonderfully exotic name, so full of promise. Although I learned about it from such a modern thing like the internet, I still felt like an explorer: I would see the rainforest for the first time in my life, hear the sounds, taste strange food, and smell the flavours of a completely different life.
And thus, a story to tell, I have!
I have been travelling before, not just in my own country, but to wonderful places elsewhere in the world. So, what is so different about this place in northern Sumatra?
The initial fascination surely came from the fact that the website offered a trip to see elephants and orangutans. How cool is that? The two types of animals, which caught my imagination since childhood days, both in one place! By the time all the arrangements were made I was fully primed for the wonder that hit me. Whoever truly fell in love, knows what I mean: One single moment in which the rest of the world does not matter anymore, in which the tears flow and one just knows…! That was I, standing above that river and watching this wall of green in front of me.
When the early night fell at Green Lodge, the generators allowed for the lights to switch on, and people would just sit, talk and play games, someone might get the guitar out and sing… and then the generators would die, the night would take charge, voices talking more softly, fireflies taking rains and the rainforest would become the host of the lodges.
But there is something else about Tangkahan. There is a shy confidence, if such a thing exists.
See, this is land that got in contact with our type of civilisation only some 200 years ago; around the same time when the above proverb was coined, when mainly men travelled, and when the purpose of travel was either to bring new wealth to the old world, or to spread the word of God. All over the world the destructive footprints of those activities are still visible, and although these days it is called globalisation and business, not a lot has changed. Local people are still used as cheap resource, and some of the methods used to keep them dependent are not too far from slavery. Land only gets respected when it brings profit and hence indigenous habitat gets destroyed together with the culture of the people living there.
The Karonese people of North Sumatra used to own that land; they defined themselves via the land rather then religion or nationality. To make a living they were then forced to work in the palm oil plantations or to log the forests, which used to give them everything they needed. And now the people of Tangkahan are claiming back control and other villages are following.
Eco Tourism is their new business, and that means they have to catch up fast. Quite a task for people who live in a place that Google Earth doesn’t find, and who, if they get lucky with the weather, have a good four-hour car ride to the next hospital.
It would be easy to take the ‘good-doer’ approach, to barge in with all our old world knowledge and money. It is exactly this ‘know-it-all’ approach, which neglects to allow the local people to take charge, causing charities to fail ever so often.
The Tangkahan people however, take charge, and they have strong alliances. Some ten years ago an Australian zoo keeper, just leaving her teenage years behind, visited for the first time … and went back year after year. She learned the language, learned about the culture, the destruction of the environment, and the needs of the people. Her name is Jessica McKelson, and she later would become the director of RAW Wildlife Encounters, the company I have been travelling with.
RAW is creating business in the area in a very controlled and responsible way. It is a company demanding high standards for hospitality, accommodation as well as ecology, and for that, fair wages are paid. Additionally RAW sponsors projects and grants, creating triple-win situations for the business, their travellers and the people of Tangkahan.
THAT is the big difference! Yes, my trip was more expensive than any other trip with the label ‘eco’ on it, but I could see there and then the impact of my money. I basically lived with the people. I got invited into their homes… and then I saw how the others worked and lived, the ones whose villages were in the middle of plantations; the ones who didn’t have that wonderful asset called rainforest. I gained a lot of perspective.
And this is not even my story. This is the background in front of which the stories unfold drawing me back to Tangkahan.
Drifting down a river in a tube made from a lorry tyre, just me sitting on top of the water navigating the shallow rapids. From far the shrieks of the others when the water hit their faces, then gentle drifting again, water buffalos, people minding their business, monkeys hanging from branches, drinking. Me-time with Tangkahan! Then we stop at pebbly beach, wet and happy we are about to meet ‘the English school’; about 20 children and their teacher are introducing themselves and singing for us – and my first thought is: What if it rains? Later that day I talked to Kristin, Jess’ right hand in Tangkahan, asking her for her biggest dream and her response was: A proper English school with a roof and a library!
Another one…The smell of the elephants, the noises they make when they ruffle the grass and the bushes, the tenderness of the trunks when sniffing for food, the warmth of their skin, and the tender assertiveness of the mahouts, guiding them over the most challenging terrain. How amazed was I on our last evening when one of the mahouts apologized for being rude. We all gave our final appraisals and farewell, and he apologized because he felt that at times he might have been too harsh to us when the situation demanded care for the elephants or vigilance for safety. He apologized for his bad English not allowing for the right words in stressful moments. I always thought of him as calm, wise and polite, I however could understand his wish for reliable communication. He closed his presentation with the words: I would like to learn better English, but I don’t know how.
Learning… learning is a big scheme that I found everywhere. The Tangkahan people are smart and have a thirst for knowledge, and they want the knowledge for the best of reasons: To be able to take their own decisions to sustain better lifestyles, and to sustain their environment.
Love for the land, the dream of a young lady, and the appreciation for a wise man are only some of the powerful threads which keep me grounded in Tangkahan. In April 2012 I will be back to meet again those incredible people, who have become friends in such a short time. I will be back to learn more about their land, and the challenges they are facing. I stayed in touch with Kristin, and we are working on her dream… We have big plans and first steps are made to upgrade ‘The English School’ to the ‘The Tangkahan Education Centre’, and to integrate it legally into the Tangkahan concept.
And we will have to find ways on how education can ‘pay for itself’. Until then, we might not entirely get away without donations… and hence I am working on creating a charity. But this will be an entirely new story!
Rika is a businesswoman, writer, inquisitive traveller, and Raw Supporter. She resides in the United Kingdom.
Author: Sonya Prosser
I had thought I knew what to expect.
As the plane descended through the towering cumulus, I glimpsed the city below. It appeared through patches in the cloud, grey and dusty, red bricks, dirty roads and windowless buildings. I could not tell whether the city was being built or falling down. The panic rose as more of the crumbling city emerged, and I realized that none of my research had prepared me for flying into Kathmandu.
Clearing customs and immigration without a hitch, we exited the airport and were set upon by the mob of touts, intent on ferrying us to the hotel that paid them the best commission. Grateful that my first attempt at organizing an overseas trip had included booking the first night in a hotel with airport transfers, we were soon whisked away from the melee by a quiet and attentive hotel driver. Taking refuge in the sanctuary of the car did little to subdue my growing apprehension, I wanted to go home.
As we drove through the city I realized this was my first glimpse of real poverty, and it was with a sense of guilt and awe that we were delivered at a hotel lobby of polished marble and chandeliers.
The following day we wandered the streets and moved to less salubrious accommodation in the backpacker area. Intimidated by what lay in wait outside, I spent most of the first week, in or close to the hostel.
I don`t recall the exact moment the shift occurred, perhaps close to the end of the trip. Leaving the city and travelling to Pokhara, and Chitwan, opened my eyes to the beauty of travelling. In Pokhara we climbed mountains and heard stories of Tibetan displacement. In Chitwan we saw wild elephant, rhino, langur and sloth bear. By the time we returned to Kathmandu the fear that had kept me chained to the room of our hostel, had vanished, and what replaced it has never gone.
I could not get enough. Out on the streets every minute, I absorbed as much as I could, before boarding the plane back to Australia.
Today, as I continue to plan my next trip, I reflect on the experiences I have had during my travels, and how they have changed me. Being surrounded by migrating dolphins in Galapagos, seeing Cotton top Tamarins in the forests of Colombia, watching a culture being destroyed in Tibet and rebuilt in Cambodia. I have developed a taste for hot food in Sichuan and hot sauce in Barbados, found good friends in Vietnam and love in Cuba.
I am no longer overwhelmingly intimidated by flying into cities so unlike mine as Kathmandu, the trepidation is mixed with excitement of the unknown, anticipation of the unique tastes, smells, and experiences I will have.
I review the scribbled notes made earlier this year, in a hotel in Quito; ‘Costa Rica, look at volunteer opportunities, Belize, diving’ it reads, ‘two weeks on a catamaran, island hopping from Cartagena to Panama’.
As I usher in the New Year, I give in to my greatest urge, and begin booking my next adventure.
Sonya is a freelance travel writer and Raw Supporter.
Retirement Islands for Orangutans
An innovative plan to create man-made islands for sick and injured orangutans in Indonesia is offering hope of a better life for animals who have previously been destined to spend their remaining days in cages.
While much of the fight to save the critically endangered Sumatran orangutan focuses on protecting their natural habitat, for some orangutans it is already too late.
Environmentalists say they are rescuing a growing number of orangutans that are unable to return to the wild because they are too ill or injured, often the result of coming into contact with humans.
Now, Australian zoo keepers, the Australian Orangutan Project and an eco-tourism company are partnering with an orangutan conservation group in Indonesia to raise money to buy land in Sumatra to create four “islands” where sick and injured orangutans could live in an environment more akin to their natural habitat, with staff on hand to care for them.
The plan is to dig moats around the land, which would prevent the orangutans, which cannot swim, from escaping. The animals can live for up to 50 years.
Four orangutans being cared for by the Sumatran Orangutan Conservation Program have already been identified as possible residents of the planned islands, said Jessica McKelson, supervisor of the primates department at Melbourne Zoo and founder of Raw WildLife Encounters, the eco-tourism company involved in the project.
Ms. McKelson said one orangutan who could benefit from the project had been shot 62 times after wandering past a village on the edge of a forest. He was left blind after being shot in both eyes, and cannot return to the wild.
“He’s becoming large and mature and he really needs to get out of the cage,” said Ms. McKelson. Another orangutan the organizers hope to relocate has been diagnosed with the human strain of hepatitis B.
But first the organizers must find suitable land for the orangutans and raise money to lease the land.
Ms. McKelson said they hoped to raise 80,000 Australian dollars ($77,432) to lease about three hectares of land near the city of Medan, in north Sumatra. A clean water supply for the orangutans would be crucial.
There are also plans to establish an education center near the site to help teach locals about how they can live in harmony with orangutans, which is Indonesian for “man of the forest”.
Environmental groups blame palm oil and logging companies for encroaching on the animals’ natural habitat, and Ms. McKelson said villagers were increasingly coming into contact with orangutans as a result of deforestation. She said the animals sometimes approached villagers’ fruit trees, which could lead to conflict.
“We will be able to use this as a key education center to educate locals with the orangutans and also educate them about human-animal contact,” said Ms. McKelson, adding that there were an estimated 6,000 Sumatran orangutans left in the wild.
By LIZ GOOCH
http://green.blogs.nytimes.com/2011/11/25/retirement-islands-for-orangutans/
November 25, 2011, 8:29 AM
Spring has returned to Melbourne!
Birds and their babies chirp outside my bedroom window each morning (acting as my natural alarm clock), nesting magpies swoop my work colleagues as they cycle past parklands, and broods of ducklings waddle behind their mum down to the river where I take my dogs for a walk every evening.
More importantly, Spring means Christmas is just around the corner – time to begin planning your next adventure with Raw Wildlife Encounters!
I attempt to plot where I am going next and what I want to do, the list stretches ever longer, I grow indecisive - seems a common problem amongst most people I talk to - budget plays a factor, time constraints, safety concerns, and worries about who is going to look after pets when I go away…
These personal planning dilemmas inspired Raw to develop new ways to alleviate your travel worries. We want to provide you with easy solutions. So not only do we still offer amazing, culturally rich, and diverse travel programs, we can now facilitate any of your travel requirements throughout the entire world.
We offer flights, travel insurance, accommodation and travel packages tailored to your needs. Pet sitting services are also available.
Flights can be arranged by Sjouke Vaartjes, our travel flight representative. Sjouke is the latest member to join the Raw team and we are delighted to have her on board!
Your time is important. Let us take the pressure off your next holiday by organising it all for you.
We’ll help you keep that clear conscience! Rest assured when your booking is made by our ethically-responsible Eco Travel Agency that money is directed back to key travel locations for you to enjoy for years to come.
So book your next holiday with us! Contact Sjouke via email: sjv@rawildlife.com.au
I am always thrilled to received feedback from Raw Supporters on ANY topics we write about. Our latest milestone was achieved this month by launching the new Raw website – www.rawildlife.com.au. This is feedback I received about the website from one of our Raw Supporters, Liz:
‘Just spent a very pleasant hour or so looking through your new website. Now I want to go on a tour! The conservation emphasis does come through. You already support so many projects which is amazing, seeing your company is still quite young. I really love that you are doing so much to educate and help the local people, which in turn helps the forests and wildlife. The site is very easy to navigate and it is written in a friendly tone.’
Thank-you, Liz. Happy reading, everyone.
I look forward to discussing your Christmas holiday plans and seeing you on our next Raw adventure.
Jessica McKelson
Director, Raw Wildlife Encounters
Ramble Away!
Do your travel stories fail to receive the attention they deserve from friends, family and work colleagues? Do you get caught up in the moment, waxing lyrical about your trip, and forget your audience may not understand because they haven’t visited the same location or witnessed the same travel experience? Does your monologue get interrupted midway by questions that disrupt the passion of your account?
To feed your need to tell everyone everything, Raw has developed this Blog for you to share your story with fellow Raw supporters. We love to hear your latest travel interactions – all the perks, experiences, emotion, drama and thoughts you had during your time away.
Visit - http://www.rawildlife.com.au/_blog/Blog and post your travel story. It’s a great way to get it off your chest and share it with those who fully appreciate the life-changing experience that is a Raw Wildlife Encounter.
Travel Vouchers
Tempted by all those amazing activities on offer at your next Raw holiday destination? Are budget constraints proving a downer on planning your desired itinerary? What if there was a way to alleviate the $tress – maybe with a little help from your friends? Introducing Raw Travel Vouchers, the easy way to purchase merchandise, make travel payments, or secure a spot on that long-desired destination.
Why not contribute to the present your family and friends really want. Wouldn’t one be a welcome surprise for those looking to escape over Christmas? Add it to your Wishlist now!
Vouchers can be purchased at http://www.rawildlife.com.au/catalog-1.
Planning a Wedding? How about opening a Raw Wedding Travel Registry? Contact info@rawildlife.com.au if you would like more information on this product.
Pets & Holidays! What to do?
Don’t fret. We have everything covered for your Raw getaway…
Raw Wildlife Encounters has partnered with Pro Instinct to provide you with pet sitting, walking and minding services.
Ease your mind and enjoy your holiday knowing your loved ones are being cared for at home by the best in the industry.
‘At Pro Instinct, our expertise is in utilising state -of -the -art training and behavioural management techniques to improve the quality of life and welfare of animals, integrate them into the lives of the individuals and families with which they reside.’
Contact proinstinct@bigpond.com to give your pet a holiday!
On the remote and magnificent island of Kadavu, Matava – Fiji’s Premier Eco Adventure Resort – boasts secluded splendor whilst also satisfying your spirit of adventure.
Bordered by the Great Astrolabe Reef, Matava is a small and intimate getaway. Traditional thatched Fijian bures set in the rainforest, nestled amidst lush tropical surroundings, can accommodate up to 22 guests and offer privacy, comfort and superb ocean views.
Matava Fiji offers the perfect environment to scuba dive, snorkel, surf, fish, and kayak, with opportunity to trek, visit villages, bird watch or simply relax and unwind.
Matava is a genuine eco-hideaway designed to cause minimal impact to the environment and promote conservation awareness to the local community and visitors.
Raw Wildlife Encounters can assist you in booking your Fijian holiday at Matava.
For further information on a package to Matava, including flights and travel insurance contact: Sjouke Vaartjes sjv@rawildlife.com.au
As part of our continuing support for the Sumatran Orangutan Conservation Programme (SOCP), Raw aims to raise $80,000 for the programme’s appeal to purchase land and establish permanent accommodation for orangutans deemed ineligible for release back to the wild. The vision includes incorporation of a Visitor Centre to spread the conservation message. Life stories of the resident orangutans will serve as concrete examples of issues facing the wild population including habitat loss, orangutan/human conflict, disease, and the pet trade.
In June 2011, Raw introduced you to the work of SOCP in Sumatra. At the orangutan quarantine facility near Medan, North Sumatra, Director Ian Singleton and his dedicated team focus on the confiscation of illegal pet orangutans, quarantine, and reintroduction to the wild. To date, 218 orangutans have been received at the quarantine centre, 141 have been transferred to Jambi for reintroduction, 6 to the new Jantho Reintroduction Center (Aceh), and more than 130 have been released back into the wild.
While the vast majority of orangutans received at SOCP quarantine centre are fit and healthy and can be transferred to reintroduction centres, on occasion SOCP receive orangutans with serious medical concerns or disabilities (including injuries) that prevent them from being returned to the wild.
In July 2011, Director of Raw Wildlife Encounters, Jess McKelson, paid a special visit to the quarantine centre and vowed to offer financial support to the facility. Observing the long-term residents proved a memorable experience during her meeting with Ian Singleton. Forty year old female Gober lost her sight to cataracts and was rescued in 2008 by SOCP after blindness forced her to raid crops, risking almost certain death from villagers. Male Leuser was shot by villagers with an air rifle and found near death with 62 air rifle wounds including three pellets lodged in his eyes. The pair were introduced and a decision to temporarily lift the breeding ban at the centre resulted in the birth of healthy twins to Gober in January 2011. Despite her handicap, Gober has proved an excellent mother.
In 2007, welcome funding from the Australian Orangutan Project enabled the construction of four purpose-built cages to improve the lives of long-term orangutans. However, orangutans can live a relatively long time (up to 50+ years in the wild) so a more permanent housing solution is required to maximise the welfare these residents. Currently, in addition to Gober and Leuser there are three orangutans that fall into this category. Tila is an eleven year old female, confiscated in 2003, and found to be infected with human Hepatitis B virus. Sadly, Tila must be housed alone due to her contagious condition. Dek Nong is a young female who suffers mystery bouts of a creeping paralysis in her arms and legs. Seumayan is a nine year old male who has lost the use of his left arm below the shoulder. Tests have been inconclusive as to the cause.
SOCP can now direct their efforts to finding suitable land while Raw directs its efforts to raising the funds to get the venture started.
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Raw Wildlife Encounters is a licensed travel agent #32907 and a
participant in the Travel Compensation Fund. You as a consumer
are protected by Law under these two provisions.
Copyright 2012 - Raw Wildlife Encounters
