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Author: Mark Keenan
I find it hard to describe what a safari experience in North Sumatra is like for those who enquire. I’m often asked, ‘How was your trip?’ or ‘Did you have a good time’ but rarely do I reply with anything more than a stupid grin and ‘it was brilliant’ or words to that effect.
The problem is that I am so enamored with North Sumatra and what we provide at RAW, that I struggle to put my experience into words. I can’t easily tell you how incredible the place is, how warm the people are, how yummy the food tastes, or how incredibly life changing the whole experience can be. Nor can I easily summarise just how much you do and see in two weeks. Well, not unless you are prepared to sit through a three-hour slideshow and accompanying David Attenborough style monologue. Sometimes pictures speak louder than the written word. Well, my words anyhow.
So it is lucky that every time I head to Sumatra, I am joined by free-spirited, adventurous people who put their faith in our company, in our knowledge, and in our North Sumatran friends to show them a once in a lifetime holiday. This is what of our recently returned guests thought of her time away with us:
'The reward at the end of a long and bumpy drive to Tangkahan – our first glimpse of the elephants and Green Lodge, our home for the next week. Instantly we relax, leaving behind the western world as the peaceful atmosphere works its magic. The days stretch out before us, filled with river tubing, 
jungle trekking, playing with the elephants, excellent food and great company. Who would have thought being on the go from morning until night could be so relaxing? Bathing the elephants, a traditional cooking class, sleeping in a cave, a night walk in the jungle, playing games and swimming with children from the village, the highlights of this trip are endless. And just when we thought nothing could top the experiences we already had, off we went on the four day Elephant Jungle Patrol. Four lovely days of riding through the jungle on elephant back, watching for Orangutans and other wildlife. Each night at the camps was spent getting to know our amazing jungle guides and mahouts. By the time we reached Bukit Lawang we were more like a family than just friends. It was an experience that touched the soul and the memories will never fade'.
- Alison Beal March 2012
This sort of feedback validates all of the energy we put into Raw Wildlife Encounters. I’d like to thank all of my March guests for an incredible fun packed trip, for their support of RAW, and especially to Ali for sharing her heartfelt words with us. I’m sure my family would love to hear of my adventures expressed as eloquently as this.
Unfortunately for them they will just have to sit through another ‘Sir Mark Attenborough’ slideshow instead.
All the Best!
Mark Keenan – RWE Tour Leader
Author: Rika Nauck
‘If a man does take a journey, he will have a story to tell’. This rather literal translation of a German proverb from the 18th century describes so nicely the old fashioned feeling that I experienced on my 2011 trip to Tangkahan.
Tangkahan! What a wonderfully exotic name, so full of promise. Although I learned about it from such a modern thing like the internet, I still felt like an explorer: I would see the rainforest for the first time in my life, hear the sounds, taste strange food, and smell the flavours of a completely different life.
And thus, a story to tell, I have!
I have been travelling before, not just in my own country, but to wonderful places elsewhere in the world. So, what is so different about this place in northern Sumatra?
The initial fascination surely came from the fact that the website offered a trip to see elephants and orangutans. How cool is that? The two types of animals, which caught my imagination since childhood days, both in one place! By the time all the arrangements were made I was fully primed for the wonder that hit me. Whoever truly fell in love, knows what I mean: One single moment in which the rest of the world does not matter anymore, in which the tears flow and one just knows…! That was I, standing above that river and watching this wall of green in front of me.
When the early night fell at Green Lodge, the generators allowed for the lights to switch on, and people would just sit, talk and play games, someone might get the guitar out and sing… and then the generators would die, the night would take charge, voices talking more softly, fireflies taking rains and the rainforest would become the host of the lodges.
But there is something else about Tangkahan. There is a shy confidence, if such a thing exists.
See, this is land that got in contact with our type of civilisation only some 200 years ago; around the same time when the above proverb was coined, when mainly men travelled, and when the purpose of travel was either to bring new wealth to the old world, or to spread the word of God. All over the world the destructive footprints of those activities are still visible, and although these days it is called globalisation and business, not a lot has changed. Local people are still used as cheap resource, and some of the methods used to keep them dependent are not too far from slavery. Land only gets respected when it brings profit and hence indigenous habitat gets destroyed together with the culture of the people living there.
The Karonese people of North Sumatra used to own that land; they defined themselves via the land rather then religion or nationality. To make a living they were then forced to work in the palm oil plantations or to log the forests, which used to give them everything they needed. And now the people of Tangkahan are claiming back control and other villages are following.
Eco Tourism is their new business, and that means they have to catch up fast. Quite a task for people who live in a place that Google Earth doesn’t find, and who, if they get lucky with the weather, have a good four-hour car ride to the next hospital.
It would be easy to take the ‘good-doer’ approach, to barge in with all our old world knowledge and money. It is exactly this ‘know-it-all’ approach, which neglects to allow the local people to take charge, causing charities to fail ever so often.
The Tangkahan people however, take charge, and they have strong alliances. Some ten years ago an Australian zoo keeper, just leaving her teenage years behind, visited for the first time … and went back year after year. She learned the language, learned about the culture, the destruction of the environment, and the needs of the people. Her name is Jessica McKelson, and she later would become the director of RAW Wildlife Encounters, the company I have been travelling with.
RAW is creating business in the area in a very controlled and responsible way. It is a company demanding high standards for hospitality, accommodation as well as ecology, and for that, fair wages are paid. Additionally RAW sponsors projects and grants, creating triple-win situations for the business, their travellers and the people of Tangkahan.
THAT is the big difference! Yes, my trip was more expensive than any other trip with the label ‘eco’ on it, but I could see there and then the impact of my money. I basically lived with the people. I got invited into their homes… and then I saw how the others worked and lived, the ones whose villages were in the middle of plantations; the ones who didn’t have that wonderful asset called rainforest. I gained a lot of perspective.
And this is not even my story. This is the background in front of which the stories unfold drawing me back to Tangkahan.
Drifting down a river in a tube made from a lorry tyre, just me sitting on top of the water navigating the shallow rapids. From far the shrieks of the others when the water hit their faces, then gentle drifting again, water buffalos, people minding their business, monkeys hanging from branches, drinking. Me-time with Tangkahan! Then we stop at pebbly beach, wet and happy we are about to meet ‘the English school’; about 20 children and their teacher are introducing themselves and singing for us – and my first thought is: What if it rains? Later that day I talked to Kristin, Jess’ right hand in Tangkahan, asking her for her biggest dream and her response was: A proper English school with a roof and a library!
Another one…The smell of the elephants, the noises they make when they ruffle the grass and the bushes, the tenderness of the trunks when sniffing for food, the warmth of their skin, and the tender assertiveness of the mahouts, guiding them over the most challenging terrain. How amazed was I on our last evening when one of the mahouts apologized for being rude. We all gave our final appraisals and farewell, and he apologized because he felt that at times he might have been too harsh to us when the situation demanded care for the elephants or vigilance for safety. He apologized for his bad English not allowing for the right words in stressful moments. I always thought of him as calm, wise and polite, I however could understand his wish for reliable communication. He closed his presentation with the words: I would like to learn better English, but I don’t know how.
Learning… learning is a big scheme that I found everywhere. The Tangkahan people are smart and have a thirst for knowledge, and they want the knowledge for the best of reasons: To be able to take their own decisions to sustain better lifestyles, and to sustain their environment.
Love for the land, the dream of a young lady, and the appreciation for a wise man are only some of the powerful threads which keep me grounded in Tangkahan. In April 2012 I will be back to meet again those incredible people, who have become friends in such a short time. I will be back to learn more about their land, and the challenges they are facing. I stayed in touch with Kristin, and we are working on her dream… We have big plans and first steps are made to upgrade ‘The English School’ to the ‘The Tangkahan Education Centre’, and to integrate it legally into the Tangkahan concept.
And we will have to find ways on how education can ‘pay for itself’. Until then, we might not entirely get away without donations… and hence I am working on creating a charity. But this will be an entirely new story!
Rika is a businesswoman, writer, inquisitive traveller, and Raw Supporter. She resides in the United Kingdom.
Retirement Islands for Orangutans
An innovative plan to create man-made islands for sick and injured orangutans in Indonesia is offering hope of a better life for animals who have previously been destined to spend their remaining days in cages.
While much of the fight to save the critically endangered Sumatran orangutan focuses on protecting their natural habitat, for some orangutans it is already too late.
Environmentalists say they are rescuing a growing number of orangutans that are unable to return to the wild because they are too ill or injured, often the result of coming into contact with humans.
Now, Australian zoo keepers, the Australian Orangutan Project and an eco-tourism company are partnering with an orangutan conservation group in Indonesia to raise money to buy land in Sumatra to create four “islands” where sick and injured orangutans could live in an environment more akin to their natural habitat, with staff on hand to care for them.
The plan is to dig moats around the land, which would prevent the orangutans, which cannot swim, from escaping. The animals can live for up to 50 years.
Four orangutans being cared for by the Sumatran Orangutan Conservation Program have already been identified as possible residents of the planned islands, said Jessica McKelson, supervisor of the primates department at Melbourne Zoo and founder of Raw WildLife Encounters, the eco-tourism company involved in the project.
Ms. McKelson said one orangutan who could benefit from the project had been shot 62 times after wandering past a village on the edge of a forest. He was left blind after being shot in both eyes, and cannot return to the wild.
“He’s becoming large and mature and he really needs to get out of the cage,” said Ms. McKelson. Another orangutan the organizers hope to relocate has been diagnosed with the human strain of hepatitis B.
But first the organizers must find suitable land for the orangutans and raise money to lease the land.
Ms. McKelson said they hoped to raise 80,000 Australian dollars ($77,432) to lease about three hectares of land near the city of Medan, in north Sumatra. A clean water supply for the orangutans would be crucial.
There are also plans to establish an education center near the site to help teach locals about how they can live in harmony with orangutans, which is Indonesian for “man of the forest”.
Environmental groups blame palm oil and logging companies for encroaching on the animals’ natural habitat, and Ms. McKelson said villagers were increasingly coming into contact with orangutans as a result of deforestation. She said the animals sometimes approached villagers’ fruit trees, which could lead to conflict.
“We will be able to use this as a key education center to educate locals with the orangutans and also educate them about human-animal contact,” said Ms. McKelson, adding that there were an estimated 6,000 Sumatran orangutans left in the wild.
By LIZ GOOCH
http://green.blogs.nytimes.com/2011/11/25/retirement-islands-for-orangutans/
November 25, 2011, 8:29 AM
Spring has returned to Melbourne!
Birds and their babies chirp outside my bedroom window each morning (acting as my natural alarm clock), nesting magpies swoop my work colleagues as they cycle past parklands, and broods of ducklings waddle behind their mum down to the river where I take my dogs for a walk every evening.
More importantly, Spring means Christmas is just around the corner – time to begin planning your next adventure with Raw Wildlife Encounters!
I attempt to plot where I am going next and what I want to do, the list stretches ever longer, I grow indecisive - seems a common problem amongst most people I talk to - budget plays a factor, time constraints, safety concerns, and worries about who is going to look after pets when I go away…
These personal planning dilemmas inspired Raw to develop new ways to alleviate your travel worries. We want to provide you with easy solutions. So not only do we still offer amazing, culturally rich, and diverse travel programs, we can now facilitate any of your travel requirements throughout the entire world.
We offer flights, travel insurance, accommodation and travel packages tailored to your needs. Pet sitting services are also available.
Flights can be arranged by Sjouke Vaartjes, our travel flight representative. Sjouke is the latest member to join the Raw team and we are delighted to have her on board!
Your time is important. Let us take the pressure off your next holiday by organising it all for you.
We’ll help you keep that clear conscience! Rest assured when your booking is made by our ethically-responsible Eco Travel Agency that money is directed back to key travel locations for you to enjoy for years to come.
So book your next holiday with us! Contact Sjouke via email: sjv@rawildlife.com.au
I am always thrilled to received feedback from Raw Supporters on ANY topics we write about. Our latest milestone was achieved this month by launching the new Raw website – www.rawildlife.com.au. This is feedback I received about the website from one of our Raw Supporters, Liz:
‘Just spent a very pleasant hour or so looking through your new website. Now I want to go on a tour! The conservation emphasis does come through. You already support so many projects which is amazing, seeing your company is still quite young. I really love that you are doing so much to educate and help the local people, which in turn helps the forests and wildlife. The site is very easy to navigate and it is written in a friendly tone.’
Thank-you, Liz. Happy reading, everyone.
I look forward to discussing your Christmas holiday plans and seeing you on our next Raw adventure.
Jessica McKelson
Director, Raw Wildlife Encounters
Ramble Away!
Do your travel stories fail to receive the attention they deserve from friends, family and work colleagues? Do you get caught up in the moment, waxing lyrical about your trip, and forget your audience may not understand because they haven’t visited the same location or witnessed the same travel experience? Does your monologue get interrupted midway by questions that disrupt the passion of your account?
To feed your need to tell everyone everything, Raw has developed this Blog for you to share your story with fellow Raw supporters. We love to hear your latest travel interactions – all the perks, experiences, emotion, drama and thoughts you had during your time away.
Visit - http://www.rawildlife.com.au/_blog/Blog and post your travel story. It’s a great way to get it off your chest and share it with those who fully appreciate the life-changing experience that is a Raw Wildlife Encounter.
Travel Vouchers
Tempted by all those amazing activities on offer at your next Raw holiday destination? Are budget constraints proving a downer on planning your desired itinerary? What if there was a way to alleviate the $tress – maybe with a little help from your friends? Introducing Raw Travel Vouchers, the easy way to purchase merchandise, make travel payments, or secure a spot on that long-desired destination.
Why not contribute to the present your family and friends really want. Wouldn’t one be a welcome surprise for those looking to escape over Christmas? Add it to your Wishlist now!
Vouchers can be purchased at http://www.rawildlife.com.au/catalog-1.
Planning a Wedding? How about opening a Raw Wedding Travel Registry? Contact info@rawildlife.com.au if you would like more information on this product.
Pets & Holidays! What to do?
Don’t fret. We have everything covered for your Raw getaway…
Raw Wildlife Encounters has partnered with Pro Instinct to provide you with pet sitting, walking and minding services.
Ease your mind and enjoy your holiday knowing your loved ones are being cared for at home by the best in the industry.
‘At Pro Instinct, our expertise is in utilising state -of -the -art training and behavioural management techniques to improve the quality of life and welfare of animals, integrate them into the lives of the individuals and families with which they reside.’
Contact proinstinct@bigpond.com to give your pet a holiday!
On the remote and magnificent island of Kadavu, Matava – Fiji’s Premier Eco Adventure Resort – boasts secluded splendor whilst also satisfying your spirit of adventure.
Bordered by the Great Astrolabe Reef, Matava is a small and intimate getaway. Traditional thatched Fijian bures set in the rainforest, nestled amidst lush tropical surroundings, can accommodate up to 22 guests and offer privacy, comfort and superb ocean views.
Matava Fiji offers the perfect environment to scuba dive, snorkel, surf, fish, and kayak, with opportunity to trek, visit villages, bird watch or simply relax and unwind.
Matava is a genuine eco-hideaway designed to cause minimal impact to the environment and promote conservation awareness to the local community and visitors.
Raw Wildlife Encounters can assist you in booking your Fijian holiday at Matava.
For further information on a package to Matava, including flights and travel insurance contact: Sjouke Vaartjes sjv@rawildlife.com.au
As part of our continuing support for the Sumatran Orangutan Conservation Programme (SOCP), Raw aims to raise $80,000 for the programme’s appeal to purchase land and establish permanent accommodation for orangutans deemed ineligible for release back to the wild. The vision includes incorporation of a Visitor Centre to spread the conservation message. Life stories of the resident orangutans will serve as concrete examples of issues facing the wild population including habitat loss, orangutan/human conflict, disease, and the pet trade.
In June 2011, Raw introduced you to the work of SOCP in Sumatra. At the orangutan quarantine facility near Medan, North Sumatra, Director Ian Singleton and his dedicated team focus on the confiscation of illegal pet orangutans, quarantine, and reintroduction to the wild. To date, 218 orangutans have been received at the quarantine centre, 141 have been transferred to Jambi for reintroduction, 6 to the new Jantho Reintroduction Center (Aceh), and more than 130 have been released back into the wild.
While the vast majority of orangutans received at SOCP quarantine centre are fit and healthy and can be transferred to reintroduction centres, on occasion SOCP receive orangutans with serious medical concerns or disabilities (including injuries) that prevent them from being returned to the wild.
In July 2011, Director of Raw Wildlife Encounters, Jess McKelson, paid a special visit to the quarantine centre and vowed to offer financial support to the facility. Observing the long-term residents proved a memorable experience during her meeting with Ian Singleton. Forty year old female Gober lost her sight to cataracts and was rescued in 2008 by SOCP after blindness forced her to raid crops, risking almost certain death from villagers. Male Leuser was shot by villagers with an air rifle and found near death with 62 air rifle wounds including three pellets lodged in his eyes. The pair were introduced and a decision to temporarily lift the breeding ban at the centre resulted in the birth of healthy twins to Gober in January 2011. Despite her handicap, Gober has proved an excellent mother.
In 2007, welcome funding from the Australian Orangutan Project enabled the construction of four purpose-built cages to improve the lives of long-term orangutans. However, orangutans can live a relatively long time (up to 50+ years in the wild) so a more permanent housing solution is required to maximise the welfare these residents. Currently, in addition to Gober and Leuser there are three orangutans that fall into this category. Tila is an eleven year old female, confiscated in 2003, and found to be infected with human Hepatitis B virus. Sadly, Tila must be housed alone due to her contagious condition. Dek Nong is a young female who suffers mystery bouts of a creeping paralysis in her arms and legs. Seumayan is a nine year old male who has lost the use of his left arm below the shoulder. Tests have been inconclusive as to the cause.
SOCP can now direct their efforts to finding suitable land while Raw directs its efforts to raising the funds to get the venture started.
1
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participant in the Travel Compensation Fund. You as a consumer
are protected by Law under these two provisions.
Copyright 2012 - Raw Wildlife Encounters
