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I cannot get enough of the Women’s Groups. I have a good friend, Yasmin, who has 7 daughters. Can you imagine? That is a whole lot of oestrogen! Yasmin is one of Melako’s board members and is passionate about empowering women in Melako. She helps quite a few women set up enterprise groups, to develop culturally appropriate industries to earn an income. Alternative and sustainable incomes that do not rely on natural resources are so important in the north and one of the most enterprising industries is the Beadwork Cooperative.
It is one of the first things that you notice about Maasai, Samburu and Rendille women: their incredible beadwork. The women use the beadwork to tell a story about their lives. With a woman you can tell her age, marital status, and even how many children she has by her beadwork.
The colours symbolize different things as well:
Red represents the lifeblood of the animals,
White the milk,
Green the life giving grass,
Blue is the rain,
Orange is about guests and hospitality,
Yellow is the cattle,
and Black represents the people.
When we catch up with the women, it is like a huge gossip and bead making session. The women also work with a grassroots group called NRT Trading to turn their traditional beadwork into products for different markets around the world. We will meet with NRT Trading’s coordinator, Celina Butali, and hear some of Celina’s hilarious stories of working with the women in the north. Buying the beadwork from the women is an important part of supporting alternative livelihoods in the conservancies. I love some of the stories the shopkeepers tell. Whenever market day finishes, the women move to the shops in a herd and pretty much buy all the cooking pots and pans in sight. The income is also spent on education, health services, and food. The greatest joy for me is seeing the familiar faces of women who had just started with the beading groups a few years before and having very little, if any, education or business skills, now writing their own loan documents, keeping business records, and moving onto larger enterprises, like shops.
There are a few support groups for young unmarried mothers as well. Rose is a friend from Merille who supports young unmarried mothers to return to school and to also learn a skill like seamstressing. Keep an eye out for some of the beautiful work that Rose’s girls have made especially for RAW Africa Eco Tours’ special guests. As life gets tougher in the north with continuing droughts and depleting livestock, some of the women become the sole income earners for their families.
RAW Africa Eco Tours provides a market for the women, like Yasmin’s and Rose’s groups, to sell their products through Oryx campsite, and we would encourage you to buy a memorial of your amazing journey directly from the women with whom you will be spending time.
You can also support a start up enterprise through RAW Africa’s ‘Want to do a little bit more’ programme and when you come on this journey with us and have some spare room in your bags, RAW Africa Eco Tours would be grateful if you could ‘Fill a Space’ and bring baby, toddler and children’s clothes for Rose’s girls.
For more information on how you can meet these fascinating women, come and visit the African Tour Page.
For more information on the 'Want to do a little bit more' programme or 'Fill a Space' please feel free to contact Brooke Squires bsquires@rawildlife.com.au
Brooke Squires has worked in zoos, national parks and conservation areas around the world. These days, she divides her time between her beloved rhinos at Werribee Open Range Zoo, Victoria, where she is a rhino keeper, and the International Conservation Partnerships for Zoos Victoria.
bsquires@rawildlife.com.au
Ph: +61 (0) 423 393 836
Author: Brooke Squires
While wildlife was definitely what first brought me to Kenya, the reason I keep coming back is the people. Most of my friends in Kenya are from the communities I have worked with over the years; they are such incredibly resilient and enterprising people.
The communities of Melako and Il Ngwesi are mostly Maasai, Samburu and Rendille and are nomadic pastoralists, with their entire lives revolving around mobile livestock systems. What always amazes me about the people of northern Kenya is their generosity and hospitality. People really rely on each other to survive up in the north so getting to know everyone is important, and guests are always valued. The greeting system in the north is called Serien, which is Samburu for ‘hello’. Basically when you meet someone you have very long discussions about the rain, the grazing, which clan is moving where, who’s getting married, etc. Might sound like idle gossip but in this way herders and families stay in touch with the events across the rangelands, by working together everyone survives. While we are in Melako we will be spending time with the community. Groups like the blacksmith clan, who still use traditional methods to extract metal from the river beds to make spears and other implements, will give us such an insight into living in two worlds, the modern and the traditional.
Visiting one of the schools that I been involved in over the years is a blast, so much enthusiasm for learning. I think this is because of the dedicated teaching staff and school principals and the fact that the community value education so highly. Gabriel Gabana is head teacher at Mercy Primary School in Laisamis. He has about 500 students, from nursery age right through to grade 6. Gabriel is completely committed to the students and he has fought for gender equality, food programs and facilities, everything that we take for granted. It seems like such an everyday thing to send your kids to school, but in Melako it is tough when you are moving from grazing area to grazing area around the country and never in one place for more than a few months. Many schools have built boarding facilities to try and enable the Rendille and Samburu children to access education, even when their families are on the move. Education is still expensive and when money is tight or there is a serious drought, the children are often pulled out of school to help look after the herds.
Quite often education is not as much of a priority for the girls as the boys and when you have to make a choice, the girls usually miss out. One aspect of this that I learnt on my first trip to Melako is that parents will not send their daughters to school without a uniform, which is only $5. 
Imagine a $5 uniform being the only thing that stops you being able to go to school. Money for uniforms is a fundraising priority for me, so if you can forgo just 2 coffees in one week, that is enough to help a girl child to get an education...so simple hey?? Quite often the community will name donated items after you, so Brooke’s uniforms, Brooke’s well. The last thing I raised money for was a toilet; kind of glad they didn’t name it after me...
RAW Africa Eco Tours also raises money to buy storybooks and stationery for our schools in Melako. In fact if you have spare room in your bag it would be great if you could fill it with stationery or picture storybooks or the community made animal hand puppets that are available directly through Raw Africa Ecotours (these have been chosen by the teachers in Melako as they are culturally appropriate, depict the local wildlife, and make learning fun.)
What would be even better is you joining me on this journey to meet inspirational people like Gabriel Gabana and join him as he proudly shows you around the school to meet some of the great students. Buy some books, a uniform, and one day you just may have a toilet named after you...Come and visit the African Tour Page or drop me a line brooke@rawildlife.com.au
Brooke Squires has worked in zoos, national parks and conservation areas around the world. These days, she divides her time between her beloved rhinos at Werribee Open Range Zoo, Victoria, where she is a rhino keeper, and the International Conservation Partnerships for Zoos Victoria.
bsquires@rawildlife.com.au
Ph: +61 (0) 423 393 836
Author: Brooke Squires
I think one of the greatest privileges I have when in Kenya is spending time with the Melako game scouts. The scouts were the first people I met when I came to northern Kenya and they have left a lasting impression on me. It is with great pride that I can now state that at least I can pronounce their names. Up until a year or so ago, they were giving me random English names to call them as I was so hopeless at getting their Samburu or Rendille names correct. Before you laugh at that, I challenge you to pronounce Lmennyoi Leolo or Lparakuoni Lekamaya. The big greeting session we have whenever we go to Melako is an endless laugh as I try to get it right. One of the many guests I have brought to Melako made the best faux pas, calling Singida (one of the Melako scouts) Sangrita. Fortunately, Singida didn't realize she’d been calling him a famous Mexican cocktail for 2 weeks!!
I think spending time with Alfred (the head scout) and his team will be one of the trip highlights. Alfred Le Surmat is in his mid 30s, he has three sons and is one of the most knowledgeable, charismatic, friendly people I have ever met. Alfred is from the Blacksmith Clan at Niribi and is a storyteller for his people. There is nothing like sitting around a campfire with a cup of Samburu tea and listening to a traditional tale. 
All the scouts are hired from within the conservancy and they know the land, the wildlife, and the communities like the back of their hand. To be able to track animals with these men, dig animal water holes, set night cameras, or just sit around a fire, sipping camel milk tea and learning about their lives, adventures, and families as well as their passion for wildlife is such a joy. Many of the activities we will enjoy in Melako they’ve excitedly put together for us.
Out of all of these, I think a good old fashioned game of soccer, Melako style, against the scouts will live in your memory forever. For our scouts, visions of being the next Kenyan Maradona dance through their heads as they take on the ‘tourists’. The minute you challenge the scouts to a soccer match, they will barely draw breath between changing into their soccer gear and heading down to the dry riverbed to play the most hard-core game since the 2006 World Cup.
This is how you play soccer... Melako style.
Soccer pitch = riverbed
Goal posts = elephant dung
Team selection = a lot of yelling
Uniforms = best clothes you have in camp
Rules = none!
Amount of laughter = priceless!!
But I also never forget that these men will put their lives on the line to protect their wildlife, and communities. While Melako is in a safe part of Kenya, RAW Africa Eco Tours support the scouts by paying for their membership to The Game Ranger Association of Africa, and membership to an amazing Australian conservation organisation called The Thin Green Line Foundation (TGLF) www.thingreenline.org.au . TGLF provide life insurance and security training to wildlife workers all over the world and are an important support system for the scouts. Your contribution to the Thin Green Line Foundation through Raw Africa Eco Tours helps to support the system that supports Alfred and his team of scouts. Keep an eye out for the support form in your tour pack or access the many ways to support the scouts and the Thin Green Line Foundation through our ‘Want to do a little bit more’ Program. If you would like to know more about any of the above, please drop me a line at brooke@rawildlife.com.au or join Alfred and me on this great adventure at the African Tour Page
Brooke Squires has worked in zoos, national parks and conservation areas around the world. These days, she divides her time between her beloved rhinos at Werribee Open Range Zoo, Victoria, where she is a rhino keeper, and the International Conservation Partnerships for Zoos Victoria.
bsquires@rawildlife.com.au
Ph: +61 (0) 423 393 836
Author: Brooke Squires
My biggest adventures with wildlife in Melako Conservancy Kenya usually involve a hyena. I seem to attract them like flies. And yes, at first you do only think about how unattractive they are. Until you see them hunting, or spending time at the edge of camp, and can’t help but gain an appreciation for the importance of their role in nature…that ’s what I tell myself anyway!
Some of my most memorable wildlife encounters have been with the hyena at Oryx camp in Melako. We once had an old goat carcass that we’d decided not to bury. We plonked it on the bonnet of the Landcruiser and drove to the nearby airstrip. We put the carcass on the ground, turned off the engine and waited for the hyena to arrive. It was breath-holding stuff. After about a minute, we heard the whooping call from one member of the pack to another. All of a sudden they came out of nowhere, grabbed the carcass and were gone in a flash. Amazing.
We also have a night vision camera set up at the river bed and that is where you see the big kids come out to play. The scouts started using the motion sensor night vision camera last year when they were digging water wells in the river bed for wildlife. No one really knew which animals were using the wells. To everyone’s surprise the cameras captured images of hyena, elephant, big herds of Grevy’s zebra, one very awkward giraffe and loads of small carnivores such as genets and civets, even a porcupine ( brave soul). I think my favourite set of images is when a particular hyena (yes hyena trouble again) came up to the camera, had a good sniff, a bit of a nibble then dismantled one very expensive piece of equipment...with his teeth, I am sure he thought it was a great joke!!
It is great fun setting up the cameras. You will be helping us on the trip; you might be surprised about who hangs around camp when we are sound asleep…
Melako is home to some incredible rangeland wildlife; these are the tough animals, the ones who can go for long periods of time without water, the ones who can travel huge distances to access food, the ones who are truly wild. I have seen cheetah, elephants, lots of very fat giraffe, Grevy’s zebra, gerenuk and ostrich, but my very favourite is the Beisa Oryx. 
These desert antelope are exquisite, big brown eyes, elegantly curved horns, almost fawn in colour and so very shy. Some of the larger herds are in Melako, existing where there is no livestock, as they have the ability to go without water for long periods of time. When you see an oryx, it is like finding gold.... they are so precious. That is why RAW Africa Ecotours named our campsite after them and why the oryx is on our logo, we think they are perfect and we want you all to know it! Part of the reason why RAW Africa Ecotours is so passionate about enterprise development is because of the oryx...and the people of course. By providing alternative sources of income, such as through ecotourism, the community members do not have to rely on livestock alone to be able to pay for food, school fees etc, Less livestock in Melako means more grazing and room for oryx and allows communities to diversify their income, so win- win really.
And the best way that you can help Beisa Oryx is by coming on the trip with me, and supporting community ecotourism and local enterprises by purchasing some of the incredible items that the community have made especially for you. Even better is meeting the person who made it...but that’s a whole other story for a whole other blog.
Come and visit the African Tour page...
Brooke Squires has worked in zoos, national parks and conservation areas around the world. These days, she divides her time between her beloved rhinos at Werribee Open Range Zoo, Victoria, where she is a rhino keeper, and the International Conservation Partnerships for Zoos Victoria.
bsquires@rawildlife.com.au
Ph: +61 (0) 423 393 836
Author: Brooke Squires
Believe it or not, there is snow at the equator.
Don’t believe me? Journey with me to Kenya and see for yourself. Mt Kenya is remarkable; it is dramatic, it is surrounded by the most diverse and unique eco system I have ever witnessed, and yes, it boasts snow-covered peaks even though it sits at the equator.
On our way to Melako and Il Ngwesi Conservancy, we stop for a couple of nights in Nanyuki. Great town and the best pizza ever, oh and the 2nd best Gin & Tonics in Kenya. Nanyuki sits at 1900m above sea level and Mt Kenya is even higher. Mt Kenya is the 2nd tallest peak in Africa and is unforgettable. It is also the southern most point of the elephant migration route that starts up in Melako, makes its way through Il Ngwesi and Lewa, and finishes on the mountain, so it is kind of the end point of the journey for many of our herds.
I always love the stories of the elephant herds, especially those about the big bulls getting to the mountain. Many of these bulls are so skilful at negotiating the gates out of Lewa, creeping across the highway, sneaking through farmland and villages, that you would never know they had been there.
Radio tracking collars have been attached to the biggest bulls to see how they do it and these guys appear to be the masters of sneaky night-time travelling. When Richard Branson heard about this amazing feat he decided to help these ingenious elephants out by building an elephant tunnel under the highway. Can you imagine a tunnel for elephants to use to get from one side of the busy freeway to the other? It is just like the wombat tunnels they use at Cradle Mountain in Tasmania.....except heaps bigger! Since the tunnel opened a year ago, over 600 grateful elephants have migrated back to Mt Kenya. I think truck drivers, communities, motorists and the elephants must all be breathing a sigh of relief, it would have given a few people a heart attack to come around that sharp bend near the Lewa turn off and come face-to tusk with 15 tons of freeway mammal traffic.
Can’t wait to introduce you to these elephants, Mt Kenya, and the elephant tunnel, and chat about the unique and inspiring methods for dealing with conservation issues in such contemporary and clever way. This is what I look forward to showing you: the beautiful traditional ways of working with wildlife, combined with the clever innovations that make it easier for communities to live side by side with wildlife like the Mt Kenya elephants.
Join me to witness the elephant tunnel and Mt Kenya covered in snow. Come and visit the African Tour page.
Brooke Squires has worked in zoos, national parks and conservation areas around the world. These days, she divides her time between her beloved rhinos at Werribee Open Range Zoo, Victoria, where she is a rhino keeper, and the International Conservation Partnerships for Zoos Victoria.
bsquires@rawildlife.com.au
Ph: +61 (0) 423 393 836
Author: Brooke Squires
Now I know Nairobi, the capital of Kenya, has not always had the best reputation. But these days Nairobi is a bustling and funky city to hang out in. I have had some of the best Ethiopian and Italian food in Nairobi restaurants and no one makes a Gin and Tonic like the barman at the Hotel Boulevard, where we spend our first 2 nights in Kenya.
The traffic is complete mayhem! Thankfully Sam, our driver, is utterly brilliant and so cool, calm and collected that negotiating donkey driven carts, buses the size of the Titanic, and the roundabouts from the Twilight Zone are no problem. When I travel with Sam, I sit back in the taxi, read a local paper and enjoy the ride. Sam always has great stories and you couldn’t ask for a better guide around Nairobi.
When I have a day spare in Nairobi, I love to get just out of town with Sam and visit some really great wildlife centres. The first stop of the day is Sheldrick’s Wildlife Orphanage. Daphne Sheldrick is a women so passionate about wildlife that whenever an elephant is orphaned anywhere around Kenya, she personally rescues it, brings it home, and rears it with a team of dedicated staff before releasing her four legged child into a safe conservation area with a group of its buddies. Some of the images of her team loading these little ellies into a small 8 seater plane are astounding!
Sheldrick’s has special meaning for me as some of the elephants orphaned by poaching around our conservancies in the north come to Sheldrick’s. While the reason why the elephants end up here is not so fantastic, there is nothing as hilarious as watching a whole herd of calves dashing down the hill towards you, squealing and trumpeting, for a play in the mud, a huge drink of milk and a frolic around the big open spaces.
But the journey doesn’t end there. We also visit the Langatta Giraffe Breeding Centre. The centre breeds the rare Rothschild Giraffe. Again, Langatta has special meaning for me as I have looked after Rothschild giraffe at Werribee Zoo. In fact, imagine my surprise when I walked into the centre and there on the wall was a poster of one of my giraffe, Jandamara. The guide thought I was a complete loony as I was pointing at the poster and repeating, “That’s my giraffe, that’s my giraffe!!”. Thankfully I was not escorted off the property and I can take you there.
A day in Nairobi would not be complete without spending time at the Karen Blixen Museum. Karen Blixen is a local legend and is most famous for her novel “Out of Africa”, the movie starred Meryl Streep and Robert Redford. I cried all the way through that movie, but I do love the museum. Karen Blixen had an enormous coffee plantation (what’s not to love about a women who owned acres of coffee) and is a firm part of Nairobi’s colonial past. Being at the museum gives you real insight into colonial Kenya, and like it or hate it, it’s a fascinating story.
The night deserves a G&T and a visit to one of those restaurants I could rave all day about. Before we head to the north the next day, I think it is worth popping into the Nairobi National Museum and Botanical Gardens. The Museum has a great natural history section, especially if you are an archaeology freak, as many believe that Lake Turkana in Kenya’s northwest is the cradle of humanity. Some of the oldest humanoid fossils have been found at Lake Turkana and are now located in a strong room of the Nairobi Museum. The Museum also has an extensive section on the cultures, people and history of Kenya. It is a great way to start learning the stories of the people of the north.
Sound like fun? Well it would be great to have you along on our next journey to Kenya and take you to Sheldrick’s, Langatta Centre, Karen Blixen’s place, and the National museum. If you would like to know more about a day in Nairobi, please drop me a line brooke@rawafricaecotours.com.au or simply join me for great food, G&Ts, and really interesting places.
Come and visit the African Tour page!
Brooke Squires has worked in zoos, national parks and conservation areas around the world. These days, she divides her time between her beloved rhinos at Werribee Open Range Zoo, Victoria, where she is a rhino keeper, and the International Conservation Partnerships for Zoos Victoria.
bsquires@rawildlife.com.au
Ph: +61 (0) 423 393 836
Author: Rika Nauck
‘If a man does take a journey, he will have a story to tell’. This rather literal translation of a German proverb from the 18th century describes so nicely the old fashioned feeling that I experienced on my 2011 trip to Tangkahan.
Tangkahan! What a wonderfully exotic name, so full of promise. Although I learned about it from such a modern thing like the internet, I still felt like an explorer: I would see the rainforest for the first time in my life, hear the sounds, taste strange food, and smell the flavours of a completely different life.
And thus, a story to tell, I have!
I have been travelling before, not just in my own country, but to wonderful places elsewhere in the world. So, what is so different about this place in northern Sumatra?
The initial fascination surely came from the fact that the website offered a trip to see elephants and orangutans. How cool is that? The two types of animals, which caught my imagination since childhood days, both in one place! By the time all the arrangements were made I was fully primed for the wonder that hit me. Whoever truly fell in love, knows what I mean: One single moment in which the rest of the world does not matter anymore, in which the tears flow and one just knows…! That was I, standing above that river and watching this wall of green in front of me.
When the early night fell at Green Lodge, the generators allowed for the lights to switch on, and people would just sit, talk and play games, someone might get the guitar out and sing… and then the generators would die, the night would take charge, voices talking more softly, fireflies taking rains and the rainforest would become the host of the lodges.
But there is something else about Tangkahan. There is a shy confidence, if such a thing exists.
See, this is land that got in contact with our type of civilisation only some 200 years ago; around the same time when the above proverb was coined, when mainly men travelled, and when the purpose of travel was either to bring new wealth to the old world, or to spread the word of God. All over the world the destructive footprints of those activities are still visible, and although these days it is called globalisation and business, not a lot has changed. Local people are still used as cheap resource, and some of the methods used to keep them dependent are not too far from slavery. Land only gets respected when it brings profit and hence indigenous habitat gets destroyed together with the culture of the people living there.
The Karonese people of North Sumatra used to own that land; they defined themselves via the land rather then religion or nationality. To make a living they were then forced to work in the palm oil plantations or to log the forests, which used to give them everything they needed. And now the people of Tangkahan are claiming back control and other villages are following.
Eco Tourism is their new business, and that means they have to catch up fast. Quite a task for people who live in a place that Google Earth doesn’t find, and who, if they get lucky with the weather, have a good four-hour car ride to the next hospital.
It would be easy to take the ‘good-doer’ approach, to barge in with all our old world knowledge and money. It is exactly this ‘know-it-all’ approach, which neglects to allow the local people to take charge, causing charities to fail ever so often.
The Tangkahan people however, take charge, and they have strong alliances. Some ten years ago an Australian zoo keeper, just leaving her teenage years behind, visited for the first time … and went back year after year. She learned the language, learned about the culture, the destruction of the environment, and the needs of the people. Her name is Jessica McKelson, and she later would become the director of RAW Wildlife Encounters, the company I have been travelling with.
RAW is creating business in the area in a very controlled and responsible way. It is a company demanding high standards for hospitality, accommodation as well as ecology, and for that, fair wages are paid. Additionally RAW sponsors projects and grants, creating triple-win situations for the business, their travellers and the people of Tangkahan.
THAT is the big difference! Yes, my trip was more expensive than any other trip with the label ‘eco’ on it, but I could see there and then the impact of my money. I basically lived with the people. I got invited into their homes… and then I saw how the others worked and lived, the ones whose villages were in the middle of plantations; the ones who didn’t have that wonderful asset called rainforest. I gained a lot of perspective.
And this is not even my story. This is the background in front of which the stories unfold drawing me back to Tangkahan.
Drifting down a river in a tube made from a lorry tyre, just me sitting on top of the water navigating the shallow rapids. From far the shrieks of the others when the water hit their faces, then gentle drifting again, water buffalos, people minding their business, monkeys hanging from branches, drinking. Me-time with Tangkahan! Then we stop at pebbly beach, wet and happy we are about to meet ‘the English school’; about 20 children and their teacher are introducing themselves and singing for us – and my first thought is: What if it rains? Later that day I talked to Kristin, Jess’ right hand in Tangkahan, asking her for her biggest dream and her response was: A proper English school with a roof and a library!
Another one…The smell of the elephants, the noises they make when they ruffle the grass and the bushes, the tenderness of the trunks when sniffing for food, the warmth of their skin, and the tender assertiveness of the mahouts, guiding them over the most challenging terrain. How amazed was I on our last evening when one of the mahouts apologized for being rude. We all gave our final appraisals and farewell, and he apologized because he felt that at times he might have been too harsh to us when the situation demanded care for the elephants or vigilance for safety. He apologized for his bad English not allowing for the right words in stressful moments. I always thought of him as calm, wise and polite, I however could understand his wish for reliable communication. He closed his presentation with the words: I would like to learn better English, but I don’t know how.
Learning… learning is a big scheme that I found everywhere. The Tangkahan people are smart and have a thirst for knowledge, and they want the knowledge for the best of reasons: To be able to take their own decisions to sustain better lifestyles, and to sustain their environment.
Love for the land, the dream of a young lady, and the appreciation for a wise man are only some of the powerful threads which keep me grounded in Tangkahan. In April 2012 I will be back to meet again those incredible people, who have become friends in such a short time. I will be back to learn more about their land, and the challenges they are facing. I stayed in touch with Kristin, and we are working on her dream… We have big plans and first steps are made to upgrade ‘The English School’ to the ‘The Tangkahan Education Centre’, and to integrate it legally into the Tangkahan concept.
And we will have to find ways on how education can ‘pay for itself’. Until then, we might not entirely get away without donations… and hence I am working on creating a charity. But this will be an entirely new story!
Rika is a businesswoman, writer, inquisitive traveller, and Raw Supporter. She resides in the United Kingdom.
Author: Sonya Prosser
I had thought I knew what to expect.
As the plane descended through the towering cumulus, I glimpsed the city below. It appeared through patches in the cloud, grey and dusty, red bricks, dirty roads and windowless buildings. I could not tell whether the city was being built or falling down. The panic rose as more of the crumbling city emerged, and I realized that none of my research had prepared me for flying into Kathmandu.
Clearing customs and immigration without a hitch, we exited the airport and were set upon by the mob of touts, intent on ferrying us to the hotel that paid them the best commission. Grateful that my first attempt at organizing an overseas trip had included booking the first night in a hotel with airport transfers, we were soon whisked away from the melee by a quiet and attentive hotel driver. Taking refuge in the sanctuary of the car did little to subdue my growing apprehension, I wanted to go home.
As we drove through the city I realized this was my first glimpse of real poverty, and it was with a sense of guilt and awe that we were delivered at a hotel lobby of polished marble and chandeliers.
The following day we wandered the streets and moved to less salubrious accommodation in the backpacker area. Intimidated by what lay in wait outside, I spent most of the first week, in or close to the hostel.
I don`t recall the exact moment the shift occurred, perhaps close to the end of the trip. Leaving the city and travelling to Pokhara, and Chitwan, opened my eyes to the beauty of travelling. In Pokhara we climbed mountains and heard stories of Tibetan displacement. In Chitwan we saw wild elephant, rhino, langur and sloth bear. By the time we returned to Kathmandu the fear that had kept me chained to the room of our hostel, had vanished, and what replaced it has never gone.
I could not get enough. Out on the streets every minute, I absorbed as much as I could, before boarding the plane back to Australia.
Today, as I continue to plan my next trip, I reflect on the experiences I have had during my travels, and how they have changed me. Being surrounded by migrating dolphins in Galapagos, seeing Cotton top Tamarins in the forests of Colombia, watching a culture being destroyed in Tibet and rebuilt in Cambodia. I have developed a taste for hot food in Sichuan and hot sauce in Barbados, found good friends in Vietnam and love in Cuba.
I am no longer overwhelmingly intimidated by flying into cities so unlike mine as Kathmandu, the trepidation is mixed with excitement of the unknown, anticipation of the unique tastes, smells, and experiences I will have.
I review the scribbled notes made earlier this year, in a hotel in Quito; ‘Costa Rica, look at volunteer opportunities, Belize, diving’ it reads, ‘two weeks on a catamaran, island hopping from Cartagena to Panama’.
As I usher in the New Year, I give in to my greatest urge, and begin booking my next adventure.
Sonya is a freelance travel writer and Raw Supporter.
This article has been published in 'Eco Voice' e-news and can be viewed at http://www.ecovoice.com.au/eco-news/7035
The Sumatran Orang-utan is critically endangered. In 2004, between 4000 and 6000 lived in the wild in Sumatra, down to less than 14% of its population 60 years ago. Efforts to prevent the extinction of the “man of the forest” is a race against time for conservationists. Awareness of the urgency to save these animals is increasing as more travellers opt for eco-tours to Sumatra.
A male orang-utan called Leuser was rescued in 2004 by the Sumatran Orangutan Conservation Programme (SOCP) and released into the wild a few months later. Two years later, he was shot 62 times with an air rifle, including in the eyes, rendering him totally blind. Leuser recovered, and is now 14 years old. But he can never be released into the wild. He is one of five at SOCP’s orang-utan quarantine facility near Medan, North Sumatra, that cannot be released because of injuries that prevent them from surviving in the wild. These animals are currently housed in cages that are inadequate as permanent homes.
Photo courtesy SOCP. 'Leseur waiting for a new island home'
“An ideal solution would be to find some land, about 3 or 4 hectares, with a clean water supply, on which to construct a number of small enclosures,” says Ian Singleton, Director of Conservation at PanEco, one of many international organisations that fund the SOCP.
The word “orang-utan” means “man of the forest” in Malay. As orang-utans live in trees and rarely come to ground, illegal logging and the clearing of forests for palm oil and rubber tree plantations has devastated 80 percent of their habitat over the last 20 years. And logging is not the only threat. Many of the orang-utans rescued by SOCP were illegally held pets, and the number of babies being stolen for the pet trade is increasing.
Awareness of the catastrophe facing orang-tans is spreading as more and more travellers opt for eco-tours to North Sumatra. Raw Wildlife Encounters is an eco-tourism company that not only includes specialised visits to the orang-utan quarantine facility but also contributes financial assistance to the SOCP. Raw Wildlife Encounters contributed to the building of SOCP’s much needed orang-utan baby house along with new quarantine caging facilities for rescued orphans. “They are all a bunch of refugees,” says Singleton. “For almost all of them, their mother was killed. Their mothers are like human mothers. They die defending their kids.”
By engaging the most highly skilled tour leaders and conservationists to deliver up close and personal encounters with the orang-utans, Raw Wildlife Encounters hopes to instil in their guests an emotional experience that will stay with them long after they leave and go home. The tour company believes that the more people are aware and educated about the plight of the orang-utans, the better chance these animals have of surviving.
But only time will tell. While the efforts of conservationists and eco-tourism companies, such as Raw Wildlife Encounters, go some way towards slowing the extinction of the orang-utan, the prospects of these animals remain bleak.
You can support this island development by making a donation to the Australian Orangutan Project RAW Island Project: http://www.orangutan.org.au/Projects/SOCPLongTermCare
Jessica McKelson, Founder Director of Raw Wildlife Encounters.
Spring has returned to Melbourne!
Birds and their babies chirp outside my bedroom window each morning (acting as my natural alarm clock), nesting magpies swoop my work colleagues as they cycle past parklands, and broods of ducklings waddle behind their mum down to the river where I take my dogs for a walk every evening.
More importantly, Spring means Christmas is just around the corner – time to begin planning your next adventure with Raw Wildlife Encounters!
I attempt to plot where I am going next and what I want to do, the list stretches ever longer, I grow indecisive - seems a common problem amongst most people I talk to - budget plays a factor, time constraints, safety concerns, and worries about who is going to look after pets when I go away…
These personal planning dilemmas inspired Raw to develop new ways to alleviate your travel worries. We want to provide you with easy solutions. So not only do we still offer amazing, culturally rich, and diverse travel programs, we can now facilitate any of your travel requirements throughout the entire world.
We offer flights, travel insurance, accommodation and travel packages tailored to your needs. Pet sitting services are also available.
Flights can be arranged by Sjouke Vaartjes, our travel flight representative. Sjouke is the latest member to join the Raw team and we are delighted to have her on board!
Your time is important. Let us take the pressure off your next holiday by organising it all for you.
We’ll help you keep that clear conscience! Rest assured when your booking is made by our ethically-responsible Eco Travel Agency that money is directed back to key travel locations for you to enjoy for years to come.
So book your next holiday with us! Contact Sjouke via email: sjv@rawildlife.com.au
I am always thrilled to received feedback from Raw Supporters on ANY topics we write about. Our latest milestone was achieved this month by launching the new Raw website – www.rawildlife.com.au. This is feedback I received about the website from one of our Raw Supporters, Liz:
‘Just spent a very pleasant hour or so looking through your new website. Now I want to go on a tour! The conservation emphasis does come through. You already support so many projects which is amazing, seeing your company is still quite young. I really love that you are doing so much to educate and help the local people, which in turn helps the forests and wildlife. The site is very easy to navigate and it is written in a friendly tone.’
Thank-you, Liz. Happy reading, everyone.
I look forward to discussing your Christmas holiday plans and seeing you on our next Raw adventure.
Jessica McKelson
Director, Raw Wildlife Encounters
Ramble Away!
Do your travel stories fail to receive the attention they deserve from friends, family and work colleagues? Do you get caught up in the moment, waxing lyrical about your trip, and forget your audience may not understand because they haven’t visited the same location or witnessed the same travel experience? Does your monologue get interrupted midway by questions that disrupt the passion of your account?
To feed your need to tell everyone everything, Raw has developed this Blog for you to share your story with fellow Raw supporters. We love to hear your latest travel interactions – all the perks, experiences, emotion, drama and thoughts you had during your time away.
Visit - http://www.rawildlife.com.au/_blog/Blog and post your travel story. It’s a great way to get it off your chest and share it with those who fully appreciate the life-changing experience that is a Raw Wildlife Encounter.
Travel Vouchers
Tempted by all those amazing activities on offer at your next Raw holiday destination? Are budget constraints proving a downer on planning your desired itinerary? What if there was a way to alleviate the $tress – maybe with a little help from your friends? Introducing Raw Travel Vouchers, the easy way to purchase merchandise, make travel payments, or secure a spot on that long-desired destination.
Why not contribute to the present your family and friends really want. Wouldn’t one be a welcome surprise for those looking to escape over Christmas? Add it to your Wishlist now!
Vouchers can be purchased at http://www.rawildlife.com.au/catalog-1.
Planning a Wedding? How about opening a Raw Wedding Travel Registry? Contact info@rawildlife.com.au if you would like more information on this product.
Pets & Holidays! What to do?
Don’t fret. We have everything covered for your Raw getaway…
Raw Wildlife Encounters has partnered with Pro Instinct to provide you with pet sitting, walking and minding services.
Ease your mind and enjoy your holiday knowing your loved ones are being cared for at home by the best in the industry.
‘At Pro Instinct, our expertise is in utilising state -of -the -art training and behavioural management techniques to improve the quality of life and welfare of animals, integrate them into the lives of the individuals and families with which they reside.’
Contact proinstinct@bigpond.com to give your pet a holiday!
On the remote and magnificent island of Kadavu, Matava – Fiji’s Premier Eco Adventure Resort – boasts secluded splendor whilst also satisfying your spirit of adventure.
Bordered by the Great Astrolabe Reef, Matava is a small and intimate getaway. Traditional thatched Fijian bures set in the rainforest, nestled amidst lush tropical surroundings, can accommodate up to 22 guests and offer privacy, comfort and superb ocean views.
Matava Fiji offers the perfect environment to scuba dive, snorkel, surf, fish, and kayak, with opportunity to trek, visit villages, bird watch or simply relax and unwind.
Matava is a genuine eco-hideaway designed to cause minimal impact to the environment and promote conservation awareness to the local community and visitors.
Raw Wildlife Encounters can assist you in booking your Fijian holiday at Matava.
For further information on a package to Matava, including flights and travel insurance contact: Sjouke Vaartjes sjv@rawildlife.com.au
As part of our continuing support for the Sumatran Orangutan Conservation Programme (SOCP), Raw aims to raise $80,000 for the programme’s appeal to purchase land and establish permanent accommodation for orangutans deemed ineligible for release back to the wild. The vision includes incorporation of a Visitor Centre to spread the conservation message. Life stories of the resident orangutans will serve as concrete examples of issues facing the wild population including habitat loss, orangutan/human conflict, disease, and the pet trade.
In June 2011, Raw introduced you to the work of SOCP in Sumatra. At the orangutan quarantine facility near Medan, North Sumatra, Director Ian Singleton and his dedicated team focus on the confiscation of illegal pet orangutans, quarantine, and reintroduction to the wild. To date, 218 orangutans have been received at the quarantine centre, 141 have been transferred to Jambi for reintroduction, 6 to the new Jantho Reintroduction Center (Aceh), and more than 130 have been released back into the wild.
While the vast majority of orangutans received at SOCP quarantine centre are fit and healthy and can be transferred to reintroduction centres, on occasion SOCP receive orangutans with serious medical concerns or disabilities (including injuries) that prevent them from being returned to the wild.
In July 2011, Director of Raw Wildlife Encounters, Jess McKelson, paid a special visit to the quarantine centre and vowed to offer financial support to the facility. Observing the long-term residents proved a memorable experience during her meeting with Ian Singleton. Forty year old female Gober lost her sight to cataracts and was rescued in 2008 by SOCP after blindness forced her to raid crops, risking almost certain death from villagers. Male Leuser was shot by villagers with an air rifle and found near death with 62 air rifle wounds including three pellets lodged in his eyes. The pair were introduced and a decision to temporarily lift the breeding ban at the centre resulted in the birth of healthy twins to Gober in January 2011. Despite her handicap, Gober has proved an excellent mother.
In 2007, welcome funding from the Australian Orangutan Project enabled the construction of four purpose-built cages to improve the lives of long-term orangutans. However, orangutans can live a relatively long time (up to 50+ years in the wild) so a more permanent housing solution is required to maximise the welfare these residents. Currently, in addition to Gober and Leuser there are three orangutans that fall into this category. Tila is an eleven year old female, confiscated in 2003, and found to be infected with human Hepatitis B virus. Sadly, Tila must be housed alone due to her contagious condition. Dek Nong is a young female who suffers mystery bouts of a creeping paralysis in her arms and legs. Seumayan is a nine year old male who has lost the use of his left arm below the shoulder. Tests have been inconclusive as to the cause.
SOCP can now direct their efforts to finding suitable land while Raw directs its efforts to raising the funds to get the venture started.
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participant in the Travel Compensation Fund. You as a consumer
are protected by Law under these two provisions.
Copyright 2012 - Raw Wildlife Encounters
